Food & Drink

The Brokavore: Why I’m not eating Fairway lobster rolls

hot-dogsI’d considered the $8 lobster rolls sold at the Red Hook Fairway’s cafe a great hidden deal, until I lined up for one last weekend and learned a couple things. First, if it was ever hidden, it’s not any more—about 90 percent of the people in line ahead of me seemed to be ordering one. Second, the $8 lobster roll is now a $10 lobster roll.
Which, don’t get me wrong, is still a noteworthy deal, especially for a generous heap of lobster, and especially when the touted version at Mary’s Fish Camp in the Slope runs north of $20.Still, prying $10 from The Brokavore’s hands for a Sunday afternoon nibble is like getting a NARAL donation out of the archdiocese. So I cast my eyes lower on the menu, figuratively and literally, and thus it was that I discovered the café’s hot dog platter. Now we’re talking. A top-drawer, all-beef kosher hot dog (from the Bronx-based purveyor Abeles & Heyman), a generous pile of kettle-cooked chips, a heap of crunchy, dill-laden cole slaw and a dill pickle spear, all for $2.25, or $2.44 with tax. At that price point it moved me to find the frank roll was lightly, perfectly toasted, making clear this is no Prospect Park pushcart vendor at work. And I got the same view of the harbor as the swells sucking on lobster claw.

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